Below the snow-capped Sierra Nevada ski area, the small, enchanting city of Granada makes a dazzling add-on to a winter trip to the mountains; but is just as appealing during the warmer months, when you’re bathed in Andalusia’s year-round sunshine, strolling below an intense blue sky. It’s got hot, unfussy restaurants, but a visit to the Alhambra, the Moorish palace atop the Sabika hill, north of the city centre, is an absolute must. Happy hours can be spent wandering the higgledy-piggledy medieval alleys and hidden walled gardens of the hillside Albaicin quarter, and there’s fun to be had in the lively student barrio of Realejo, the old Jewish district. Granada is easily walked and the perfect size for a short visit.
What to do
You cannot go to Granada without visiting the Alhambra, a spectacularly situated Moorish wonder. Every year, two million people explore the 13th-century hilltop palace/fort, soaking up the eye-popping wonders of the Nasrid Palaces, where every inch is covered with geometric tiles and intricate plasterwork; even the wooden ceilings are patterned with coloured designs to represent heaven. Ideally book in advance, although a few tickets are available at the main entrance most days at 8.30am (off-season weekdays are a good bet). Be aware that the Nasrid Palaces (the main attraction within the Alhambra) are 15 minutes’ walk from the entrance — don’t be late, or you’ll miss your ticketed entrance time. The Dobla de Oro ticket includes six other monuments in the city. From the centre you can take the C30, C32 or C35 bus up to the Alhambra, then walk back down.
In the centre, cross over the River Darro, directly below the palace, to see El Bañuelo, the best-preserved Arab baths in Andalusia — 1,000 years old, so no longer in use. The ritual of bathing had important religious significance, with different days for women and men; look up to see the entrancing star-shaped skylights. If the 11th-century ablutions house makes you long for a modern version, nip back across the river to Hammam Al-Andalus. This deliciously indulgent hammam has Moorish tiles and horseshoe arches. The hot pools and massages will soon soothe those ski-stiffened muscles.
Carmen de los Martires is also worth a visit. The walled garden of this 19th-century house has rows of palm trees and long rectangular pools. You’ll also see Alhambra-like colonnades with delicate pillars and carving, without the monument’s crowds. Parque Federico Lorca and Huerta de San Vicente make for another pleasant day out. The museum, towards the edge of the city, is where Lorca wrote The House of Bernarda Alba. The original furnishings remain and outside you’ll see the poet’s summerhouse among linden trees and roses.
Alcaiceria might be less charming than the authentic markets of Fez and Marrakesh, but it is still diverting. The neo-Moorish bazaar was rebuilt in the 19th century after a fire and spread along narrow alleys between Plaza Bib-Rambla and the cathedral. Expect good-natured banter with the stallholders, who purvey ceramics, carpets, leather bags and other Moroccan, Middle Eastern and Indian goods.
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For more gastronomically orientated retail, food shop Al Sur de Granada has artisan extra virgin olive oil and organic jamón iberico (Iberian cured ham), as well as fresh produce such as mangos and avocados, which grow near the coast. They specialise in natural wines from all over Spain; also look out for the delicious chilli sauces from Salsa Sierra Nevada.
Finally, if you’re travelling with children, Parque de las Ciencias is a shoo-in. The 70,000 sq m science park has interactive exhibits themed around the human body and technology, as well as a planetarium and a reconstructed Neolithic dolmen. In the biodome, kids can get face to face with free-roaming lemurs and tame toucans; and what culture-weary child can resist eyeballing sharks, jellyfish and seahorses in the aquarium.
Where to stay
Granada has a huge range of options for every budget and party size. Those looking to keep costs down should try the Albaicin, the winding Moorish quarter opposite the Alhambra. Hotel Casa 1800 is a pretty hotel with a chic feel. The stone courtyard has mural-decorated walls, marble columns and wooden balconies, while the bedrooms’ soothing cream tones are enhanced by luxe touches such as baroque gold headboards. Book a room with a sunny terrace and Alhambra view.
Those wanting to stay near the cathedral should try another low-cost option, Palacio de los Navas. This brick-built 16th-century palace traces its history to the reconquest of Granada. White balustraded balconies lead to light rooms, some with vaulted, wood-beamed ceilings. The patio is closed with a glass roof, making it cosy on colder days.
For a grander stay, book Palacio de los Patos, located between the historic Puerta Real area and Federico Garcia Lorca park. The elegant buttermilk-yellow 19th-century mansion with a pretty garden sits next to a modern glass-fronted annexe — less jarring than you’d think, while the spa has a hot tub, Turkish bath and sauna, for a heat blast.
Food and drink
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Tapas-lovers will be in heaven in Granada, because you get a free small dish with each drink. Rub shoulders with the granadinos at Los Diamantes. Order the pescaito frito — mixed fried fish. If a warming curry is more your thing, try Kobaru, which serves up superb katsu curries and ramen bowls, including those made with vegetable stock, thankfully, for non-meat-eaters. You’ll find this restaurant just beyond the tree-lined Plaza de Gracia. Don’t miss the sharing menus. Explore the city’s Maghrebi heritage through Arrayanes’ superb tagines and chicken and almond pastries. The long-established restaurant on the edge of the Albaicin is adorned with Moroccan carpets and stucco arches, which add to the north African vibe. Bar Poë, meanwhile, creates Brazilian, Portuguese and Thai dishes. This eclectic menu matches the equally international crowd at this friendly, buzzy bar.
Alternatively, cut down time spent researching and surrender the decision-making by going on a food tour. Spain Food Sherpas run two daily routes to four bars. You’ll get six tapas, a dessert and four drinks, and best of all, gastronomic and cultural titbits, such as the Sephardic and Berber influences on Granada’s cuisine. The company also offers flamenco and tapas tours, and wine tastings.
Don’t miss
A flamenco show. Bypass the touts and head for Peña La Plateria, which claims to be the oldest flamenco bar in Spain. Visit on a Thursday as the rest of the time it’s members-only. Whichever show you opt for, you can expect an evening of moving music and unforgettable dance.
Know before you go
February is a great time to visit, as it’s usually free from the crowds you’ll find in high season. You can also expect temperatures up to 20C.
Remember that siestas are still a way of life in many areas of Spain. Although many major attractions stay open in the afternoon, you’ll find that smaller businesses often close for several hours after lunch. This is especially the case during summer.
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