Emo Style Is Back — but It's Not the Same Trend You Loved in Middle School

Kourtney Kardashian and a model in emo style outfits
Photo: Getty Images/InStyle

If the return of Y2K fashion has you breaking out pastel-colored butterfly clips, cropped baby tees, low-rise jeans, and platform sandals, that's all fine and good. However, for those who prefer something a bit darker — and possibly sexier — well, there's another aughts-inspired aesthetic to embrace: emo style.

Unlike fantastical, romanticized escapist ways of dressing, like cottagecore, fairycore, and light academia, emo style is more akin to that of gothcore with some artistic elements of dark academia. It's moody and grungy, and, in many ways, might reflect how someone is actually feeling rather than how they wish they felt. That's essentially how the aesthetic got its start in the late 1990s and early 2000s, back when sensitive souls downloaded bands like Dashboard Confessional and My Chemical Romance to their iPod, and cut their hair in choppy layers before dying it black.

Intrigued? We tapped pro stylists to get their tips for pulling off emo style, plus our favorite outfits that pull off the aesthetic.

What Is Emo Style?

Kelly Osbourne and Avril Lavigne in emo style during 2003 MTV VMAs
Getty Images

"The [emo] style goes all the way back to the early 2000s when the Internet was just a wee thing," celebrity stylist Cindy Conroy said of the comeback trend. "Singer and emo princess Avril Lavigne brought it center stage as websites like Myspace were being used for the very first time. We saw blunt side-swept bangs, stacked leather cuffs, Dr. Martens, studded belts, and color always grounded by black."

However, that was then. With celebrities like Kourtney Kardashian, Megan Fox, Willow Smith, and Olivia Rodrigo fronting the scene, emo style today has gotten a bit of a makeover.

Kourtney Kardashian in emo style with Travis Barker
Getty Images

In the early aughts, emo style was considered particular and niche. It involved wearing all black and painting your nails in the same color, accessorizing with studded belts and safety pin accents. Liz Bader-Natal, director of styling at Dia & Co, said that emo style is much more aesthetically diverse.

"Today's emo-girl gets her inspiration from K-Pop and anime," Bader-Natal told InStyle. "She watches makeup tutorials on TikTok and scours thrift stores and her grandma's attic for vintage treasures. She doesn't believe in traditional rules when it comes to her look, so she'll change her hair color or style from one week to the next, jump headfirst into a fashion faux-pas — think socks with sandals — and mix and match feminine pieces and colors with more industrial counterparts."

Our Favorite Emo Style Outfits

01 of 08

Black Is the Color Palette

Person wearing a black emo style dress
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Even though the overall emo look has been slightly altered, dark hues are still the marker of this aesthetic. Any hue that closely resembles ink, shadows, and/or pitch darkness void of any stars or light has the emo-girl's stamp of approval. Conroy recommended having an endless supply of black clothing, from dark lace corsets to black chunky boots, in order to nail the look.

02 of 08

Leather Outerwear Is Essential

Willow Smith in emo style with leather jacket and black hoodie
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Fashion stylist Kiki Baltzi told InStyle that in order to fully embrace emo fashion, some serious leather pieces — or, rather, black leather pieces — are required in your closet.

"A leather trench coat or biker jacket, depending on which better suits your style and body type, should definitely be on your shopping checklist — preferably for the near future, alongside a pair of black vinyl leggings," Baltzi said.

03 of 08

Balance Out Sexy with Grunge

Person wears emo style with black corset, mesh top, and cargo pants
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According to Baltzi, today's rendition of emo is flirting with goth. Sex appeal is part of the aesthetic, thanks in large part to Kardashian and Fox's influence.

To nail the look, Baltzi suggested pairing a vintage-inspired corset top — bringing out the sexy side of the modern emo girl — with oversized cargo pants.

"It's the ultimate outfit for an emo girl who knows what she's doing. Because emo nowadays is all about the contrast between sexy and grunge," said Baltzi.

04 of 08

Your Shoes Make a Statement, Too

Person wears transparent black emo style dress with platform pumps
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The emo aesthetic is a head-to-toe commitment, and the style's signature footwear is a classic pair of chunky platforms (preferably in black). For inspiration, Baltzi noted Versace's Medusa Aevitas pumps are the quintessential modern take on the trend.

05 of 08

Swap Your Skinny Jeans for Straight-Leg Cuts

Person wearing emo style outfit with black top and destroyed jeans
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According to Bader-Natal, the emo-girl aesthetic is all about proportions — smaller pieces on top with something oversized on the bottom, or vice-versa. So, if you're reaching for a cami or bra top, step into something straight-leg and high-rise.

"Bonus points if those jeans have some sort of detailing like patchwork or stamping, and stay away from whiskering" Bader-Natal said. "Go for a more saturated color."

06 of 08

Cargo Details Are a Must

Person wearing emo style outfit of gray top with cut-outs and black cargo pants
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Emo-girls love an endless supply of pockets — pockets on button-downs, pockets on skirts, pockets on pants, etc. That being said, Bader-Natal stressed that extra pocket details should be limited to one item per ensemble. So, if you're wearing cargo pants, it's best to keep your top more streamlined.

07 of 08

Baby Tees, Please

Person in an emo style outfit of a crop top and trench coat

One piece giving the emo-girl style a refresh is the Y2K baby tee.

"They're great for layering — you can continue to play with proportions by wearing one under an oversized vintage sweater vest — as well as for giving a peek of skin," said Bader-Natal. "For an emo look inspired by Y2K, try one under a pair of overalls and add butterfly hairclips, dad sneakers, and layers on layers of necklaces."

08 of 08

Pops of Color

Person wearing emo style with an oversized jacket with green and black checked sleeves
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Yes, you read that right. While black is a major player in the emo wardrobe, Mikado personal stylist Jordan Stolch would like to remind you that color is not off-limits.

"Offset the heaviness of dark shades by incorporating accents of classic primary colors, red always being a big one, as well as jewel tones and supporting neutrals, like white and silver," Stolch told InStyle. "Print is also key in order to bring the emo wardrobe to life, with a major focus on plaids, polka dots, vintage florals, and graphic tees."

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