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Cerro Torre

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 6

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FA: Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri, Daniele Chiappa & Pino Negri, 1974

FA: Janez Jeglic, 1988

FA: Janez Jeglic, Marko Lukic & Miha Praprotnik, 1994

In 1970 Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi opened this new route on the southeast face with the aid of a gas-powered compressor drill. Maestri equipped 350 metres (1,150 ft) of rock with bolts and got to the end of the rocky part of the mountain, just below the ice mushroom. Maestri claimed that "the mushroom is not part of the mountain" and did not continue to the summit. The compressor was left, tied to the last bolts, 100 m below the top. Maestri was heavily criticised for the "unfair" methods he used to climb the mountain.

The route Maestri followed is now known as the Compressor route and was climbed to the summit in 1979 by Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer. Most parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult ice-rime mushroom.

The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974 by the "Ragni di Lecco" climbers Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri.

Source Wikipedia

Set: Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus & Pietro Vidi, 1970

FA: Jim Bridwell, Steve Brewer, Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari & Pino Negri, 1974

FFA: David Lama †, 2012

On the east face.

FA: Matteo della Bordella, Matteo de Zaiacomo & David Bacci, 27 Jan 2022

The Long Run 6c A1 M7, 2100 m, Cerro Torre, new route, following whole SE Ridge of the mountain and summiting two other “cerros” on the way: El Mochito (by a new route, 6a, 250m) and El Mocho (by Benitieres, Anker-Piola, ED-, 6c A1).

FA: Marko Prezelj, Stephen Koch & Dean Potter †, 2006

FA: Tomy Aguiló & Korra Pesce, 28 Jan 2022

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Author(s): Rolando Garibotti

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9789616027199

This is the definitive mountaineering guidebook to the Chalten Massif Mountains in southern Patagonia in Argentina, which includes the Fitz Roy, Torre, Piergiorgio, Marconi and Adela Mountain groups.

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Tue 2 May
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