Finding Chill In Valparaíso, Chile

Ninety minutes outside of Santiago is the seaside town of Valparaíso. It extends up from the ocean into the hills, with every square centimeter covered with buildings, streets, stairs, art, or sometimes all four.

Far from the bustle of Santiago, and having a completely different feel than the adjacent resort town of Viña del Mar, Valparaíso has a vibe all to itself.

My visit, however, centered around a hammock.

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After a few days in Santiago, the highlights being dinner with friends (choclo!) and climbing San Cristobal Hill, I boarded a bus bound for the sea. Valparaíso feels immediately different from Santiago. People walk slower. There are far more tables in the streets with people selling their wares and vittles. Tucked in amongst the houses and buildings are aging funiculars to help with some of the steep bits.

There’s color everywhere. Most buildings, especially the residences, sport strong yellows, blues, and reds. Street art covers walls, buildings, and even stairs. Graffiti sometimes covers the art. Other times the art covers it.

I made my way up the hill to my temporary abode, the Hostel Mariposas. I’d picked this hostel for one simple reason: a rooftop lounge with hammocks. I am all about the hammock. I wasn’t disappointed. Not only could I relax in a hammock in the shade, I could do so with an incredible view down the hill, over the town, and the to sea beyond. Better still, a picnic table with the same view sat nearby, offering a place to get work done on my laptop with the speedy WiFi. This would be my home for a week, and I couldn’t have asked for a better spot. Here's the view:

Food in town was prevalent and cheap. The best I had was Empanadas Famosas, which your high school Spanish will probably tell you means Famous Empanadas, and apparently they were (famous, that is). They were also delicious. Huge empanadas with beef and cheese, mushrooms, or a variety of other options. Two were a meal. Add in a Coke and it was all less than the cost of a Starbucks coffee. I could get used to this place.

Everywhere in Valparaíso, everyone was so friendly. Taxi drivers cracking jokes you can’t understand. Waitresses happy you’re trying to speak horrible Spanish. I noticed that Chileans look you in the eye when you talk and don’t break eye contact. It takes a little to get used to, but it’s actually quite nice.

And everywhere, dogs. Strays, but unlike any strays you’ve ever seen. They wait at crosswalks for the lights to change. They hardly ever growl or bark. They’re dirty, sure, but all well fed and tame. People don’t bother them; they don’t bother people. Also, apparently, they protect people.

One women at the hostel said she’d heard the dogs follow people walking alone at night, seemingly just to make sure they get to their destination. She hadn’t believed it, but it happened to her the previous night. I didn’t believe it, until it happened to me. On my walk back up the hill to the hostel after dinner, I’d took a break halfway up and sat on a low wall. A dog came by, checked me out, and then sort of just hung around while I sat there soaking in the sodium vapor lights. Anytime anyone new came up or down the stairs, he’d position himself between me and the newcomer. He even gave a single “watch yourself” bark to a guy approaching us by himself.

After a few minutes I continued on my way, and the dog watched me for a few more minutes, then went back to doing dog stuff. Perhaps I’m anthropomorphising, but it sure did seem like he was watching out for me. Good dog.

All too short

My stay in Valparaíso ended, sadly, on a down note. I’d traveled to Viña del Mar for a day to check it out… and I tripped on a seawall and broke my leg in two places. Ten days into a two month South American adventure, and I was going home. The hostel owner helped me greatly. If you want to read about that bit of fun, including navigating towns with a broken leg where you don't speak the language, getting checkout out in a Chilean hospital, and more, check out Unintended Adventure: Relying On the Kindness of Strangers.

If you’re headed to Chile, or South American, definitely check out Valparaíso for a few days to relax and recharge. I’m glad I did (broken leg notwithstanding!).