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Christophe Decarnin 

​The man and the controversy

Christophe Decarnin was born in Le Touquet, north France, in 1964. and from an early age he started to show his interest in fashion design. He graduated successfully at the prestigeous ESMOD Fashion Institute in Paris and started consulting at first for various maisons, then he became creative director of Paco Rabanne prét-a-porter line for 7 years.

In 2005 he was nominated creative director of the House of Balmain, brand that was experiencing a public and economic collapse after the death of its creator. Decarnin and his extraordinary genius succeeded to save the sorts of the French Maison, generating what is now called a "Balmania", especially perpetrated by celebrities and jet-set's fashion icons.



Just as had at the time Pierre Balmain, Decarnin has a very modern approach to fashion, revisiting the classics of the fashion house with a modern twist, with the addition of a personal and spontaneous touch that can be defined as "casual ultraglamour", affectionately called by the critics "Baroque 'n' roll "as he mixes the usual rock mood with baroque features.

This modern approach to the Balmain style often met the disapproval of the press, accusing the designer to sell "ripped garments for thousands of pounds" in a time of economical recession and a growing worldwide poverty.

After 6 years and many rumours, in 2011 Christophe Decarnin left the leading of Balmain into the young hands of his already co-worker Olivier Rousteing.

"I want my clothes to be exclusive, but not too exclusive" - Christophe Decarnin

Military chic

The ​military-inspired jackets with big pointy shoulders (the over-copied detail that has become the personal signature of Christophe Decarnin for Balmain), covered with Swarovski crystals, matched with faded jeans and high heels, is a clear example of the innovation that Decarnin has brought to the label, branding his garments by making them more appealing to a younger audience. This Michael Jackson's drummer boy inspired jacket became very popular amongst celebrities and a conspicuous number of high street brands started producing their own revisitations of the garment giving it more accessibility to the greater public.

His punk inspiration is undeniable but, though there are some controversies on the matter, Decarnin was still able to reflect the brand's luxurious and high profile DNA, transforming "La jolie Madame" into a more confident and strong woman, who feels comfortable in her own skin and in her own Balmain clothes, daring to dare.

 

"Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness."

Andrew Bolton, Met curator

Despite he left Balmain's direction only a few years ago, Decarnin's clothes have become synonymous with glamour, sophistication and elegance. As a result, they have become among the most desired fashion clothing on the market.

Beyonce' Knowles wearing Balmain - April 2009

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